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Sunday, June 15, 2008

The prodigal daughter returns home...in true Malawi roller-coaster style...

I know this is way past-due, but I'm finally logging on to give an update on my whereabouts. No, I am no longer in Malawi. I returned this past week Monday, 9 June, and since then have been pondering how to continue my entries now that I'm back, especially since I still haven't finished telling the stories of events prior to my departure on 8 June. It appears I'll have to rewind at least a few times in order to do so.

For now, I'll start with my reflections on my journey back home. Coming back in itself was relatively uneventful (well, by Malawi standards, that is...). Deliwe and I managed to get the house cleaned up and packed in one night and one morning (well, she did most of the work, I admit...). In the couple of days that preceded my departure, a few colleagues and neighbors came over to check out the 'loot' I needed to get rid of prior to moving out. This, I must admit, was tinged with a bit of irony, as it truly was the only time anyone had come to my home to offer me money. As crass as this may sound, it was often the opposite. Sometimes salespeople, sometimes beggars--but primarily I tended to be at the giving end, so it was nice to be at the receiving end for a change. Not only that, but several people (including Deliwe herself), insisted on giving me gifts before I left. This of course was nice, but meant more things to pack as well. See below for details on the packing. Out with the old, in with the new. The key is to leave just about everything you brought with you behind. Which I did. Luckily, without much difficulty, and with people more than happy to take it all off my hands.

After selling a few small things--computer speakers, headphones, power strips, fan, electric kettle, and not much else-- I proceeded to go through what was left and decide what to keep and what to leave with Deliwe and her family. The good news is that I discovered (starting in December) that I'd lost quite a bit of weight in Malawi, so most of my trousers no longer fit. Since tailoring is relatively cheap and readily available in Malawi, I left most of my trousers, as well as a few shirts, with Deliwe. This, of course, opened up quite a bit of space in my bag, which proved necessary for fitting in all of the wooden carvings I'd picked up on Zomba Mtn. the day before--on a sidenote, I'd promised the vendors there the week prior that I'd be back to buy a few things... let's just say the word 'few' turned out to be quite a liberal term in this case.

So, once I'd cleared out the closet of unwanted 'fat' clothes, I set about the task of wrapping my new goods in the remainder of the clothing and stuffing them into my 2 big bags. Oila! Amazingly, everything fit! It was as if I'd both acquired and discarded the optimum number of belongings to perfectly fit. A good omen? Perhaps, but remember. This is Malawi... 'n Me.

The following morning, we got everything together in a liesurely way, set out to leave at 11 a.m. with Flocy, the wife of Dr. Maseko (who purchased my car), along with her 4-year-old son and her niece. In the meantime, a few people dropped by to say goodbye, as well as to finish collecting the 'loot' they'd claimed and/or put down-payments on the night before. The goodbyes that touched me most were from Movuto, Deliwe's brother (who also helped to collect all of Deliwe's loot which also required the assistance of 2 of his strongest friends), Deliwe's mother, who thanked me for helping to purchase metal roofing for her new house, scheduled for completion in August, and, last but not least, Harold's kids Noel, Pacharo, and Miracle. Upon my request, Dorothy had brought them around in the morning to say goodbye to me. Giving each of them a final hug and kiss really brought a few tears to my eyes. That was a tough one.

**(On a sidenote, the last I heard through the Domasi rumor mill, Harold had another visit to the police station after going to Dorothy's mother's house drunk, violent and ridiculous again, just shy of a week before my departure. Luckily, her mother's landlord was able to restrain him and take him to the police station for his 3rd appearance in a little over a month. Rumor had it back then that he might go to prison. However, after talking with Deliwe this past week, it sounds like that never happened, and that he and Dorothy may have gotten back together in the week since I left. I sincerely hope this is not true. Still checkin... will have to check again and save that news for a later post...)

Once that was done, off we went. My only real goodbye to Domasi College was to ride off in the car, laying on the horn in a very obnoxious way. I loathe long, teary goodbyes, so this was the best alternative, and it somehow worked for all of us, as we got a good laugh out of it. Not sure how the Domasi residents felt about the whole thing, but we had giddy smiles on our faces, anyway.

The 3-to-4 hour drive to Lilongwe went relatively well. The 'police barricade' gods were on our side that day, as I was not stopped once during the entire trip (which is almost unheard of). I was especially concerned about possibly being stopped since the car insurance seal prominently displayed on the dashboard (per Malawi traffic law) was under Flocy's name, since mine had expired at the end of May. Considering I'd been on the traffic cop radar enough to start my own 'Mzungu in Malawi' version of the U.S. show 'Cops' based solely on my own traffic cop stops (rhyme intended), this was amazingly good luck beyond all imagination.

So, after the dreaded police roadblock in Balaka (usually the most intimidating one with officers ready to get you for any little offence they can drum up), sitting in the car, singin along to Lucius Banda on the cassette player, enjoyin the sunshine and warm breeze through the open windows, we were all thinkin nothin could stop us now.

And then it happened.

The kid.

Woke up.

Wet trousers.

Confused expression.

Panicked mother.

Wet car seat.

Panicked Jen.

But wait! It's not my car anymore!

Relaxed (but a bit grossed out) Jen.

"Why did he wet his pants? Isn't he potty-trained?" (Again, the kid's 4 years old.)

"He was shy. He didn't want to ask you to stop the car," was the response.

"But couldn't he ask you? Then you could've asked me."

"I think it's because he was sleeping."

"OK, then we should stop soon."

So, we did, soon after that. Luckily, Flocy was prepared with clean, dry clothes in the trunk, and somehow there wasn't a major odor, nor a visible stain on the upholstery. Again, at that point, I didn't care. The car was sold. Paid for. Money in my U.S. Bank acct. Woo hoo!

After buying a few oranges, cokes, and some samosas, we were on the road again.

That was our only incident. Not too bad. The next time, the boy asked, and then shamelessly relieved himself the true Malawian way. At the side of the highway, out in the open, for all to see and admire. All (o.k., maybe just most) Malawian men relieve themselves this way. One thing I will not miss, and do not miss. (Though around here, out in the sticks, it can also happen once in awhile, unfortunately...)

Stay tuned for the 'what I miss' and 'what I don't miss' about Malawi list to come in a later post...

We eventually made it to Lilongwe, said our goodbyes to Flocy and the car, and lugged my oppressively heavy bags up the stairs to our room (with a lotta help from a member of the hotel staff, whom I made sure to thank with a generous tip).

Since there were no standard rooms available when I finally remembered to book the hotel room the day before, we had a luxurious 'executive suite' room, complete with a couch and one of those big, round pompadon (sp??) chairs. Due to exhaustion, Deliwe and I just plopped down in the furniture in front of the T.V. You'll never guess what was on. Ya, you got it...'Idol' -- Like 'American Idol,' but the Southern Africa version. Unfortunately, I knew enough about the show back home to explain the formula to Deliwe. She found it fascinating, of course.

Actually, the T.V.-watching was just a way to pass the time while waiting for a few veterinary surgeons to meet with us to discuss the Penga case. Ya, amazingly (and contrary to the erroneous pessimism of a certain ex-pat Puerto Rican person I once knew in Malawi claiming to have a law background), these guys really seem to be taking my vet malpractice case very seriously. They actually came to the hotel to meet with me on my last night in Malawi, discussed my case further, and expressed their deep concern over how my experience has affected the reputation of their profession in Malawi. They really seemed genuinely concerned, and promised to do everything in their power to make sure the case was handled professionally, seriously, and thoroughly.

For now, I'll leave it at that. I'm waiting for a final decision at the end of this week. Again, I implore all those following this story to send good vibes, pray, meditate, and do whatever you can to summon the forces of the universe to bring this man (the Zomba butcher---er, I mean 'vet') to justice. Let's just say I did everything in my power to report his incompetence, unprofessionalism, and lack of compassion to light. Our meeting on 7 June also bore much fruit in terms of conflicting stories exposing his blatant dishonesty. Again, watch for details later, once I've received a conclusion later this week. For now, I'll leave it at that, just in case something written here could compromise the investigation and deliberation of the case.

So, after our chat with the vet surgeons, Deliwe and I were off to our usual Indian restaurant for some food, then back to the room to watch a little T.V. (British 'survival' show this time... I was the one who stayed awake for that...). Deliwe, as usual, was 'out' by 10 p.m.

The next morning was very difficult, as I woke up to the sound of Deliwe trying to stifle her sobbing. Though I'd expected a teary goodbye at the airport, I hadn't expected for it to start so soon. It turned out to be a rough morning for both of us. Luckily, we'd planned things well enough that we were able to spend some time together, and try to enjoy the morning prior to our trip to the airport.

After breakfast and a bit of haggling at the (last-minute) Lilongwe 'curios' market, we headed to the airport with our taxi driver Billy, who not only was willing to drive us there for a reasonable fare, but also agreed to bring Deliwe back to the city after seeing me off, at no extra charge, since he also had a pick-up at the airport about an hour after I checked in. This was an extra bit of luck.

Was all this good luck too good to be true? No police stops, the apparently fruitful meeting with the vet surgeons, the generous cab driver? Ya, my pessimistic side started to wonder... somethin's gotta give...

And then it happened. "Your bags are too heavy, and you have three. You'll have to pay an over-baggage fee."

"How much?"

"116 U.S. dollars." (if memory serves)

"Can I pay with a credit card?"

"No. You must pay cash."

"Where can I get cash?"

"There's an ATM near the National Bank counter, over there (points to my right)."

"O.K. Can I go get the money and come back?"

"Yes. I'll return your passport to you once you've returned with the payment."

So, I calmly proceed to the ATM, only to find that it's a National Bank ATM, which means it will only accept cards with a 'Visa' logo. Mine is a Master Card. I then proceed to the National Bank counter, and am told they cannot help me access the money. I have no way to get the cash I need to pay the fee.

Now, not so calmly, I go back to the counter, explain everything to the nice lady there, and ask if I can pay 1/2 of the fee in Lilongwe, and the other 1/2 in Johannesburg (my next stopover).

"No, you can't do that." Ya, I should've known.

"Can I carry one of the bags?"

"You could carry the small one."

"I can carry on 3 bags?" (I already had my laptop and a shoulder bag).

"Yes, that's fine."

"And not pay the fee?"

"Yes." (which means 'No' in a tag question in Malawian English--if you're confused, then you're reading it right)

"Thank you so much!"

Whew... crisis averted. Time for teary goodbye. I'll spare the details of that one. It was very very hard. I'll miss Deliwe a lot. And not just the cooking and cleaning. She became, and will always be, my very best friend in Malawi. Full stop. (another of my favorite British expressions).

So, I get through security (again feeling panicked as I realized ALL my toiletries were in the small backpack I'd just retrieved, and back home they'd all be chucked in the bin-- ironically, they made it through in Jo-burg as well). When I arrived at JFK, South African Airways checked the small backpack in for me, free of charge. Ya, good travel spirits were with me that weekend.

The flight between Johannesburg and JFK (New York) was very interesting as well, as I ended up sitting right next to a woman named Gift, the librarian from the Public Affairs Office at the U.S. Embassy in Lilongwe. Though we'd only met a couple of times, it was quite a coincidence. What a small world! Same flight, huge jumbo jet, and there we were, seated right next to one another. Imagine the odds. She was also on the same flight from JFK to D.C. Small world... smaller 'n smaller every day...

The only other event worth reporting is that, despite the fact that all travel went smoothly after the over-baggage fee scare, the last leg of the journey had its little kinks... at first it looked like it was going to be delayed, but then it departed very close to the originally-scheduled time. Of course, since I live in a small town in upstate New York, it was a small puddle-jumpin propeller plane. I hate those... bumpy, scary landing, but we all white-knuckled it and survived.

When we arrived at the airport in Binghamton, NY (about an hour from where I live), we discovered that although we made it in one piece, our luggage did not make it at all. Ya, travel spirits... with ya one second, gone the next. Luckily, only 4 out of the total 10 or so people on the flight had checked luggage, so it didn't take too long to report it (once the baggage handlers/ground crew/ticket agents--ya, they do it all in these dinky aiports-- came back in from the tarmack).

The next day (Tues., 10 June), one of the very same baggage handlers/ground crew/ticket agents delivered my 3 bags in his own vehicle. Whew! Travel spirits returned... Amazingly, all my goods were basically intact. Only the legs to my new chess/end table broke, and I was missing two small paintings (Word to the wise going to or leaving Africa-- bring anything small 'n valuable along in your carry-on-- I shoulda known better). All the big, heavy stuff was still there, so not bad. And that bag had a lock on it. Definitely an 'inside job.'

So, all-in-all, my return was not unlike my Malawi experience. Full of surprises, never a dull moment, and quite a roller-coaster. Overloaded with cliches 'n metaphors? Perhaps. But that's Malawi. And Me.

Don't worry, this is not the end. More stories to come, and the "Things I "miss" 'n "Things I don't miss" lists. And, of course, some pix 'n videos. I think I can get all of them up from here, with my boyfriend's super-duper-speedy internet connection (one of several amazing revelations upon my return). But don't expect it all right away. Tomorrow's my birthday (well, actually today--it's after midnight here), and I'll be in New York City until Wed. night. Ya, goin to see 'Spamelot' (Finally!) on Broadway Tues. evening. A bit worried (no, a LOT worried) about the sensory overload. Not sure I'm ready yet. Wish me luck.

You know what that means... Tiwonana for now!

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

We'll miss your rumblings about malawi Jen X.

Limbika

Anonymous said...

Welcome home! Even though it sounded like a difficult teaching situation, the teary goodbyes tell me it was a good experience overall. Such paths could cross again--you never know.

I'm on my way to Seoul tomorrow. Maybe I'll ask the bus driver to honk at at the Bundang bus stop for ya. ;)

MA in SAfrica said...

WHATTTTT???? You have already left and we never went to visit you?????

Please keep us posted with your next journey!!!
MA and SB

heddahop said...

Hey! Glad you are back, sorry to have been non responsive as of late! Call lets get together for a swim Friday?!?!?

Anonymous said...

hi jen
i find your blog quite interesting ...and a little concerning. my husband and i are moving for 10 months to zomba from the U.S. so i have many questions and hope you can give us advice, any advice is welcome.
starlacos@yahoo.com
welcome home!

Anonymous said...

Very interested to see your blog, especially the references and pictures relating to Chauncy Maples, to whom I am related through my mother's family. I am compiling a family hitsory and wonder whether you might be able to make some of the photographs available to me? holland@smilebroadband.co.uk