DISCLAIMER

This website is not an official U.S. Department of State website. The views and information presented are the English Language Fellow's own and do not represent the English Language Fellow Program or the U.S. Department of State.

Monday, February 25, 2008

Weekend in Wilderness, Chanco in Crisis

Well, it appears for now that we have internet service restored at Domasi College... Yahoo! So, that means all my 3-5 or so faithful readers may soon be able to enjoy my ramblings of my endless adventures here on a daily basis again... Lucky you! I'm not making the 'free Malawi gin' promise again though, since the new connection has been rather spotty, and is confined to a small faculty computer center which can get quite busy, rather than our individual offices, as was the case back in '07. I'll use this week as a tester and get back to my loyal readers once I have a verdict on returning to my fabulously-famous daily ramblings--er, posts, I mean...(complete with free gin offer!)

So, as suggested by the title above, I had my first weekend away since arriving back in Malawi in January, and it was quite a nice little trip. Deliwe gladly came along, and we drove back up to Liwonde National Park (where we went back in October) just for a one-night stay at a minimally-developed a campsite in the park. We didn't see as much wildlife this time, but did run into more wildlife of the human kind than we had anticipated, due to the arrival on the same weekend of a 30-plus group of teenagers from the UK. This form of human wildlife added a dimension to our getaway which was a bit unexpected, but created a few interesting stories nonetheless. Let's just say I came away from the experience with a few new friends, none of whom were in that teenage group. I'll leave it at that for now.

However, rather than telling those and other stories of our weekend adventures, I'd like to focus this post on the experience I had at Chanco today, and save the weekend story for tomorrow when I'll have a few pix to post along with my stories. In the meantime, I'll post a few more of the pictures I promised last week in order to get caught up. So, for those faithful who check this site daily, you'll have something to look forward to tomorrow, eh?

So, as for today, I wanted to post the latest news from Chancellor College (a.k.a. Chanco) regarding the ever-present lecturer's strike. Remember last December? I think I'd updated my readers on the situation then, but just as a refresher, there had been a strike regarding demands for a 200 percent pay increase which was apparently approved by government back in 2005. If I understand the issue correctly, the 200 percent was a portion of an original 500 percent increase to be paid to lecturers over a period of time, though this period was not clearly agreed upon by the University Council (Government) and the Lecturer's Union. The teaching strike which took place starting in October of last year was finally ended when the lecturers reluctantly agreed to a 20% increase in late October (following a student protest of the strike after about 5 weeks without instruction), pending further negotiation after the end of the semester. However, this negotiation apparently never took place. Because of this, the lecturers who are part of the union (not all of them are, and I'm not sure what the percentage of members is, but I think it's about 50%) decided to withhold their end-of-semester grades until the University Council agreed to meet their demand of a 200% pay increase.

Of course, the withholding of the grades has a serious consequence here in that it forces the delay of commencement of the next term, as several meetings must take place regarding the finalization of the grades, recording them, submitting them to heads, deans, and students, followed by an agreement by the administration as to when the new term will start. From my own experience, this is quite different from how it's done at other academic institutions, at least in the U.S, where departments do not meet to confirm grades and then submit them to deans, who then meet again to review and approve them prior to deciding on the start of the semester. Where I come from, we follow an academic calendar and keep to deadlines. If an instructor misses the deadlines, then he/she might request an extension, or some other type of arrangement, but this does not affect the academic calendar. Hence, this type of system was quite confusing to me (still is, quite frankly). However, what I do understand is that this system is very conducive to the type of action that is taking place. In order to pressure the government powers to meet their salary demands, withholding grades is a viable option for lecturers here, as it enables them to disrupt the academic calendar, thus the start of the new term.

In this case, only the union lecturers agreed to withold the grades, but those who do not belong to the union (many in disagreement with this type of action) decided to submit their grades on time. Despite this, the University Council took a very serious step this past Friday-- just after lecturers' salaries were deposited into people's accounts, the council somehow (with cooperation from the banks) managed to freeze the accounts so that no one could withdraw their money. Many were saying they couldn't even access money they had apart from their salaries. This action was not taken only against lecturers in the union, but against all academic staff at the college, regardless of whether they'd submitted the grades or not. In addition, all were given an ultimatum to submit their grades by tomorrow (Tues. Feb. 26) or the salary/acct. freeze would not be lifted. Wow. A shocker for me. Of course, I'm not personally affected, as my pay comes from the lovely U.S. Taxpayers-- (Thanks, you guys! I loveya!! Rest assured, I taught all of my classes last term, and submitted my grades on time... your money's been very well-spent on me, and by me ;-)

So, today the Humanities Dept. called an emergency meeting to decide what will happen next. After much discusssion (a little over 2 hours--very short by Malawian standards, btw), a decision was made to let the council know that the faculty takes serious offense to the fact that their bank accts. were affected, especially considering the fact that the dispute was between the union lecturers and the council, not the entire faculty. Add to this the fact that one of the Education Ministers in the Government was quoted on the front page of the paper saying something like, "If they're unhappy with their salaries, they should quit." Many union lecturers in the meeting reassured their colleagues that the union lawyers did manage to get a court injunction against the salary/acct. freeze and it should've been lifted sometime today, though I haven't gotten any confirmation on that yet.

All in all, the long and short of it is that this labor dispute seems to have escalated into a battle, if not a war, between the academic staff and the government university council. As many asserted in the meeting, the council seems to have decided to take such an action in order to 'pit' the non-union members against the union-members, by punishing everyone for the actions of a few. Luckily, they don't seem to be taking the bait (at least not in the Humanities Dept.), and the Union lawyers seem to have taken care of this legally-questionable action by the University Council as well.

The sad part is, we're already a good month behind schedule on an academic calendar that was already a year behind schedule due to this dispute when I arrived here. Unfortunately, those who suffer most in this whole process are the students, still waiting at home for the new academic term to begin. Not only that, but the first-year students who are already on campus for orientation may actually be sent home next week if this thing doesn't get resolved soon. For their sake, I hope it does. That said, Tiwonana Mawa, hopefully with better news--stay tuned.

Sunday, February 17, 2008

Yup, I'm still here! (In Malawi, that is...)

**NOTE: At several times during this post, I mention new pictures to be posted. Some are already here. Some will come throughout the week, so stay tuned!!**

First of all, please let me apologize profusely to my 5-6 faithful readers (a number which I'm afraid has dwindled to 0-0) for not posting much earlier. Of course, I have a million excuses for my nearly one-month hiatus, none of which you're interested in, but all of which have to do with lack of the following: internet access, time, energy (both electrical and human). I'm sorry to say that despite the best intentions of the administration at Domasi College of Education (where I live, for those who have forgotten), we as yet do not have internet access on campus. This, of course, means I must travel about 30 mins. to Chancellor College and then log on hoping that I (1) can get online--service is spotty, and (2) the connection is fast enough for me to do all the things I need to do online in one sitting. After having the convenience of internet service on-campus at Domasi in 2007, this is taking a lot of getting used to, since I prefer to write my blog entries in the evening after dinner when my mind is sharpest. However, due to the current situation, I'm forced to write during the day, scheduling time for the drive, taking care of other internet-related activities, etc., usually with a VERY SLOW connection. As I may have mentioned earlier, this leaves little time for a decent blog entry. Perhaps I'm too much of a perfectionist, but I'd rather not do it at all that do it sloppily and in haste (hmmm... that could be dangerous in another context).

So, after breaking my promise not to bore you with all my excuses, let's get on with it. It's been a long time, hasn't it? So much to tell, but I'll try to limit it to the highlights. Before I do so, however, I did want to let everyone out there who is waiting patiently for the video I promised weeks ago to know that I have not yet figured out how to upload a video onto this blog. When I look at the set-up, it appears that I can only download from 'YouTube' or 'Google Videos', and I don't think it would be appropriate to post the little videos I make for this blog onto those sites. So, if any computer wizzes out there know how to upload a video onto a blog without using YouTube or Google Videos, please feel free to insert a comment below this post to let me know. I'd really appreciate it, as I was hoping to share some interesting experiences via video on this blog between now and the end of my fellowship June 1.

So, yes, it appears that I'm now on the downslope of my journey-- meaning, among other things, past the mid-point. I now have approximately 3 and 1/2 months to go in this 9-month experience. This, of course, has created some mixed feelings for me, as at times this seems like an eternity, and at others it feels like a nanosecond in the grand scheme of my time here. I suppose since coming back from a visit home, I've been a little bit out of sorts, as I'm a bit trapped between two worlds, not really fitting neatly into either one. Those out there who have lived for an extended period overseas (or still do) can relate to this feeling. Though I often have a sense of looking forward to leaving in June, there's another part of me that wonders how difficult it will be to leave a place that in some ways is beginning to feel a bit more like 'home'.

Like any experience, however, there are good days and bad days. As promised, the highlights and lowlights over the past months are as follows (in backwards order --present to past--, as that's how my backwards brain tends to remember things):

Hmmm... Good news first, or bad news? Let's do the bad news first to end on a happier note:

Lowlights:
1) Almost every week since I've returned from my holiday visit to the U.S., I've suffered from some type of ailment. The latest one seems to be a slight cold/allergy. Though it's nothing serious, I'm feeling a bit run down and groggy. Before that, I was having stomach/intestinal issues. Before that, another 'feminine' issue I won't give the details of, but something I'm prone to, especially in times of stress. I'm not sure exactly what's going on, but I certainly have not been as healthy physically since coming back as I was during my first 3 months in the country.

2) This past week, several people (all Malawians) have come to me asking for money. While I really like to help people out, I'm now having some mixed feelings about this issue. The Malawians reading this blog, as well as the Mzungus living here, know what I'm talking about. There's a tendency (likely begun during the British colonial period) of locals believing that all those with white skin are infinitely rich and willing/able to fund/sponsor anyone in need. Now, at some level, the relative wealth part is true. Most visiting Mzungus do have much more money than most local Malawians. However, those who come here to live are here to do a job, hopefully helping the local population to improve their circumstances, not by donating money to them, but by helping them to acquire skills and gain access to materials and training that will benefit their lives now and in the future. As I've contemplated the continuous requests for money, I've now limited my charitable lending (not giving) to those who can provide some sort of proof that the money is being used for further education or training. I do have a very generous heart, for I as well came from a background in which I did not have a lot of money or means to advance my education, but relied at least in part on the generosity of a scholarship fund to help me get through school. In this spirit, I'm doing my best to help those who are willing to help themselves. This week, I did have to draw the line, however, and have decided not to give out any more loans during my stay here. Saying 'No' to people in need is not one of my stronger suits. However, I have also been warned by many locals here that several people 'embellish' their stories and end up using the money lent for less viable endeavors such as the 'bottle store' (i.e. liquor store). Advice well-taken. Let's just say I ask a lot more questions now.

3) Deliwe's mother's mud-brick house collapsed under the weight of heavy rains a few weeks ago. Fortunately, she did have a relative living nearbye who is now staying in Mozambique and was able to allow her to move into her house until she can re-build. Deliwe had told me just a couple of days before the collapse that she was very concerned about the house, and that the plastic we'd purchased for the roof back in November was leaking again (due to the munching of at least one nasty little rat living in the thatched roof--bloody varmint!). Though I'd just helped her to buy more plastic to replace it, the heavy rains were just too much, and unfortunately the house fell. The other good side of this story is that only the kitchen area was initially affected, so no one in the house was hurt, since this happened late at night, and the bedrooms stayed intact. Deliwe's mother lives with her teenage son (Deliwe's brother) Movuto and a young niece, so this was a very lucky outcome as well. Of course, had they not been able to stay elsewhere, our house would have been open to them until they could re-build. These days, the rains have become much less frequent, so hopefully they'll be able to re-build soon. I hope to help them in that venture in any way I can, including my vast knowledge of home construction (he he just kidding...;-) Maybe I can elicit the help of my little sis Heather, who's an expert in that area.

3) The carpenter involved with the orphanage project fell ill with Malaria a few weeks ago, and essentially abandoned the project (Malaria season seems to have come upon us since I returned in January--certainly due to the heavy rains). Unfortunately, I wasn't aware of this immediately, and upon visiting the project last Saturday, was told he'd be back to work again to finish. However, he never did return to work, despite the orphanage director Alfred's insistance that he is no longer feeling ill. This means we'll have to demand some of his pre-paid stipend back in order to hire another carpenter to finish the job. I'm now a bit concerned that the project is falling behind, and hoping that will not happen. Luckily, Alfred seems to be on top of things, and thinks he can find a reliable person to finish the job this week so that we can start on phase II: the painting.

4) The housekeeper next door to us also fell VERY ill with Malaria a few weeks ago. For those reading from outside Africa, I've learned that there seem to be several types of Malaria, with various symptoms, ranging from mild to serious. This woman had a type that was VERY serious, and to my surprise, her employers (though one was at home) did not help her at all. The housekeep actually had to send someone to ask Deliwe for help, as her and Deliwe are good friends. Deliwe then told me how she was suffering, so I took her to a private hospital a few miles away in a town called Malosa. Luckily, she received excellent care there, and within 2 days, was released healthy and back to normal. Needless to say, she no longer works for those employers. Word around the campus/village has me branded a hero for saving her, and her employers as the opposite. Though I do not consider myself a hero, I was, and still am, confounded by the fact that someone was there who could have helped her, and chose not to do so. Perhaps there's a part of the story I still don't understand, though I could never bring myself to confront these people on this matter. In any case, I'm certainly not a hero. I just did the right thing, which I believe anyone should do in a similar situation.

5) This last lowlight is a bit out of order, but I must bring it up. It's gotten HOTTER again. When I came back in January, the weather had definitely cooled down, at least in part due to the rains. However, this past week, the temperatures definitely shot up again. I'm told the true cooling down happens in April, though I'm really hoping it'll happen sooner. I'm not sure if I can survive the Oct./Nov. temps. again... HELP!!

That's it for the lowlights... Now a middle-light (made-up word--i.e. 'jen-ism' for a story that's half-bad, half-good)

-+ We had a SERIOUS blackout on the Domasi campus about a month ago, due to a blown transformer caused by lightning hitting one of the above-ground power lines. This story actually is mostly negative, but bordering on positive, because the problem was remedied much faster than we anticipated. The power went out on a Saturday evening at about 6 p.m., and never returned all day the following Sunday. That, in fact, was the day I decided to go up to Ku Chawe Inn on Zomba mountain with some friends to enjoy the view and some good food (see below). Unfortunately, upon my return Sunday evening, we still had no electricity. It never came back all night, and still nothing on Monday morning. At that point, I began to realize what life is like for the majority of Malawians living in villages with no electricity. Of course, I've had this experience on a much smaller scale as a back-country backpacker/camper back home (and also during a very bad ice-storm in the 70s as a young kid), but this was very different. I realized how dependent I am on electrical power for so many things. The things I missed most were hot showers (it was actually pretty cool back then) and the refrigerator. Food was going bad, especially the yogurt I'd bought the day before the blackout... ugh. The amazing part of the story, however, is that the electric company, known as ESCOM, somehow came through with a new (or newer) transformer, after informing the Domasi College administration that they may have to ship it to Blantyre to be fixed, and it would take at least 3 days (translation: at least a week, probably two). The unofficial story speculated by many was that they'd have to send it to South Africa due to the lack of a qualified technician in Malawi to fix it (which is common for many similar issues here, due to brain-drain and other issues involving access to technical/higher education, but I digress). Let's just say we were all preparing for at least one long, cold dark week (probably 2). Then, lo and behold, the following day (Tuesday), the ESCOM technicians showed up with a big lorry (semi truck) loaded with a new (or new-looking) transformer. They proceeded to install it while gaping spectators, myself among them, watched in shock, awe, and amazement. We couldn't believe our eyes. This is the company that was known for not reading meters for months, failing to bill people for their usage, and then suddenly switching off their electricity prior to slapping them with a huge bill (I know because it happened to me back in September, shortly after my arrival, of course for usage by prior occupants of my house). Somehow, they got it together. Our electricity was up and running by nightfall that day. I'm still in shock. Electric shock. Pun intended.


OK, so finally on to the better news, the highlights:

1) I just learned a couple of days ago that my favorite band, THE POLICE, are extending their tour, currently in Europe, to conclude in the U.S. this summer!! Woo Hoo! Carrie, my best buddy in worshipping this band, is on the mission of getting us some really good seats during the pre-sales starting tomorrow--the goal is first 5 rows, toward the center--ya, could be a long shot, but we're goin for it anyway. We're also hoping to repeat our 2-show tour of last summer. Wish us luck! How does this relate to Malawi, you ask? One NGO benefitting from the huge profits made during this tour is WaterAid (mostly thanks to Sting and his wife Trudie). Check their website to see the work they're doing to improve access to potable water in Malawi and other developing nations around the world.

2) I joined an aerobics club in Zomba which is run by the P.E. teacher at Domasi College, meeting 2 nights a week. I realized that last year, after purchasing my trusty Toyota, I wasn't getting enough exercise (ironically, as most people here get so much more exercise just by walking), so I thought the club would be a good idea. So far, it's going very well, I'm slowly getting back into shape, having fun, and meeting some really cool people in the process. In addition, the group is planning a trip to Zambia in April, which is one of the destinations I really want to visit before leaving the continent. I'm really excited to be doing that with a local group, rather than with Mzungu tourists, which was plan B. Woo hoo! I'm also good friends with a guy on the planning committee (a colleague who joined the aerobics group with me), so I'm hoping to have enough influence to make sure we make it to Victoria Falls for a day. Wish me luck on that, too!

3) Deliwe started attending school again. It was her wish to repeat her Form 4 courses (for the Americans, that's the British/Malawian equivalent of the senior year of high school) in order to get higher scores on the government-designed exams in a bid to eventually continue her education at the post-secondary level. Though the system here is quite competitive, it does allow for students who want to repeat and/or finish their studies as adults to attend night classes at the secondary school. Luckily, Domasi has both a primary and a secondary school on campus. With funding from her previous employer Fay, who was a Fulbright scholar living in my house in June/July 2007, she was able to begin classes about 3 weeks ago, and seems to be doing very well. I contributed by purchasing a few school supplies for her during a visit to Blantyre, and have since been told that she's the envy of all her classmates due to the superior quality of her school supplies. Good stuff.

4) I've discovered the beauty and brilliance of Zomba mountain, finally. For some reason, I hadn't traveled to the top since the initial visit my first night in the area at the U.S. Embassy cottage, so I figured it was time. I've now been to the top 2 times, and plan to go much more often when I'm home on the weekends (as I have been since I came back). At the top of the mountain is an amazing fancy hotel by the name of Ku Chawe Inn (Ku Chawe is also the name of the village at the top of the mountain). Because it's a rather fancy hotel, they offer services such as a beautiful (but pricey) Sunday lunch buffet, so the 2nd time I visited, I made sure to go on a Sunday, accompanied by Tamake, a Japanese volunteer at Domasi. After a nice big lunch and a couple of refreshments (only 1 or 2 beers, I think), we went for a nice hike around the place. The hotel also offers maps of the trails/roads in the area, so I plan to explore these much more on future weekends. I'll post a few pix of our excursion today or tomorrow, so watch for those.

5) I finally met Deliwe's younger brother Movuto, who comes to visit us on a regular basis, and is quite an impressive young man. He's also in Form 4, and Deliwe tells me he's no. 1 in his class. I have good reason to believe her assessment of his scholastic aptitude, as I lent him a very challenging historical book on the recent (post-apartheid) political situation in South Africa, and he finished it in a little over a week. I was amazed, as I have yet to tackle that book myself, which is why I brought it along with me to Malawi (purchased back in 2004, I'm embarrassed to admit). I'm enjoying our visits, and hoping to witness this young man have a very bright, promising future. My friend David--who also plans to purchase my car, another highlight this month-- tells me that talented students here can get money from the government for their higher education, as long as they are accepted to university. I've talked with Movuto about this, and I'm hoping to provide him some guidance that will help him to further his education. I know he will do great things if given the opportunity.

That appears to be all for now. Right now, it looks like the negatives and positives are about even. Hopefully, my next post will lean more to the positive side. For now, it appears that we are all caught up--Whew!! Keep watching for more posts, especially pictures to come this week! Tiwonana for now! (***Reminder: Due to lack of internet access at Domasi, my posts will continue to be less frequent than in '07, though I do hope to post at least once or twice per week until internet access is fully restored at Domasi ;-)